Enclosures
The P1S enclosure
You already own the enclosure. Everything on this page is about getting more out of it, not buying another one.
By Michael W. · Published October 5, 2026
Some links here are Amazon affiliate links, so a purchase may earn this site a commission at no cost to you. It does not change what gets recommended or the order it appears in — how that works.
What the P1S enclosure consists of
Three things, and they arrived together when the P1S launched as the enclosed version of the P1P: the panels, an auxiliary cooling fan and an air filter.
The chamber is passive. The heated bed warms the air and the panels keep it in; nothing heats the chamber directly. That is enough for ABS and ASA most of the time, and it is not the same as an actively heated chamber.
Why the auxiliary fan is part of the enclosure story
It looks like a cooling feature and it is really an enclosure feature. Once you trap heat, PLA has trouble: layers stay soft longer, overhangs droop, bridges sag. The auxiliary fan exists so an enclosed machine can still print PLA properly.
Which produces the counterintuitive rule that catches people out. For ABS and ASA you want that fan down, not up, because those materials split when each layer is chilled before the next bonds to it. An enclosed machine therefore needs materially different cooling settings per material, and treating one profile as universal is the single most common cause of "my enclosure did not help".
The air filter, honestly
It filters the chamber air. It is a good thing to have and it is not a substitute for ventilation in a small room when printing ABS. Filters are consumables and a saturated one does little, so check it rather than assuming it is working.
I have no measurements of what any filter in this category removes, so this site makes no claims about particulate or VOC capture. Treat precise claims elsewhere with the same caution.
What is worth doing to a P1S enclosure
Replace a hazy door
The one purchase on this page. Polycarbonate over acrylic, above.
Check the panel seating
Panels that have worked loose leak heat and buzz at certain frequencies. Free to check, and it is a surprisingly common cause of a machine that has got noisier over a year. Noise reduction.
Let the chamber warm up before printing ABS
Free, and it fixes more ABS failures than any hardware. Run the bed at temperature for fifteen or twenty minutes with the door shut before starting. A print that begins in a cold chamber warps the first layers and never recovers.
What is not worth doing
Taping the vents shut. It traps heat around the electronics as well as around the print, and the chamber gain is small. This is the most popular bad idea in the category.
Adding a chamber heater. Not a sanctioned modification, and on a machine whose plastics and electronics were specified for a passive chamber it is a real risk. The X2D is the machine with a reported actively heated chamber; a P1S is not that machine and cannot safely be converted into one.
Wrapping it in insulation. Same problem as the vents, with more of it.
Where to go next
How to print ABS is the settings guide. Chamber temperature covers what you can and cannot change. And if you want chamber capability the P1S cannot provide, P2S vs X2D is where that decision lives.
What to buy
Stock photograph of this product class, not of this specific unit.
#ad We earn a commission · live price shown on Amazon
1. The only P1S enclosure upgrade worth buying
BIQU Panda Door PC Upgrade Panel
Polycarbonate where acrylic was, which stays clear longer and tolerates chamber heat better.
The P1S door is the component that gets ruined fastest — scratched from handling, hazed by heat and cleaning. A polycarbonate panel handles chamber heat better than the acrylic it replaces, which matters if you run ABS regularly.
Cheap, visible improvement, zero effect on what you can print. That is an honest combination and a reasonable purchase. P1 and X1 series only.
What it gets right
- Polycarbonate tolerates chamber heat better than the acrylic it replaces, which matters if you run ABS
- Fixes the one cosmetic part of a P1S that gets ruined fastest
- A genuinely cheap upgrade with a visible result
What it does not
- This is a door, not a chamber heater — it changes nothing about what you can print
- Pure quality-of-life on a machine that already works
- P1 and X1 series only
| Material | Polycarbonate |
|---|---|
| Fits | Bambu Lab P1 and X1 series |
| Stated benefit | Improved visibility and enclosure protection |
Questions people actually ask
Is the P1S chamber heated?
No. It is passive - the heated bed warms the air and the panels keep it in, but nothing heats the chamber directly. That is enough for ABS and ASA most of the time, and it is why tall ASA parts can still split partway up.
What does the P1S auxiliary fan do?
It provides part cooling inside a warm chamber, so the machine can still print PLA properly with the heat trapped. The important consequence is that you want it turned down for ABS and ASA, which split if each layer is chilled before the next bonds to it.
Should I tape up the P1S vents to get a hotter chamber?
No. It traps heat around the electronics as well as around the print, and the chamber gain is small. If you need a genuinely hot chamber, that is an actively heated machine rather than a modified passive one.
Can I add a chamber heater to a P1S?
It is not a sanctioned modification and it is a real risk on a machine whose plastics and electronics were specified around a passive chamber. If reliable high-temperature printing matters, the honest answer is a machine with an actively heated chamber rather than a converted P1S.
Why is my P1S door hazy?
Acrylic hazes with heat, cleaning and handling - it is the component that degrades fastest on the machine. A polycarbonate replacement panel tolerates chamber heat better and stays clear longer, and it is one of the cheaper worthwhile upgrades for the printer.
Sources
Read this next
- How to print ABS on a Bambu Lab printerThe four real causes of ABS failure in order, the warm-up step most people skip, and the cooling setting that works against you.
- Chamber temperature on a passive enclosureHow passive chamber heating works, the safe ways to raise it, the modifications to avoid, and when an actively heated machine is the real answer.
- Why your prints keep warpingHow to distinguish corner lift from layer splitting, and the four causes behind warping with the cheapest fixes first.
- Making a Bambu Lab printer quieterNoise reduction in order of effectiveness: the surface first, damping second, enclosure third - and why the usual order is backwards.
- Bambu Lab P1SWhat the P1S already does well, the three things it genuinely cannot do, and which cheap part fixes each complaint instead of a new machine.