The best Bambu Lab upgrades

It solves two separate problems with one purchase, which almost nothing else here does: four-color printing, and keeping filament dry while you print from it.

The drying half is the under-sold part. People buy it for color and keep it for the fact that their PETG stopped stringing. Because the spool you dried is the spool feeding the machine, there is no window where it reabsorbs moisture during a long print.

Honest costs: purge waste on every color change, and the vertical space it needs above the printer.

Carbon fiber, glass fiber, metal, wood, glow-in-the-dark and glitter silks all contain filler harder than stainless steel. With the worst of them, a single print does visible damage to the nozzle.

Supplied as a complete hotend assembly for the P1P and P1S, which makes fitting it a module swap rather than extracting a nozzle from a hot block. A-series machines take their own part.

Buy it before the first spool of filled filament, not after. The wear is cumulative and not reversible.

The least exciting item on this page and the one I would buy first after maintenance. A contaminated or gouged plate stops the queue until you deal with it; a spare turns that into a 30-second swap.

Powder-coated textured PEI on a 0.5 mm stainless base, cited as resisting warping on large models in ABS, PC and nylon. Forgiving about Z offset, which prevents more failed prints than extra adhesion would.

A cheaper third-party textured plate is the sensible second if you want two for less.

This is the feature people buy a P2S for, at a fraction of a new printer. A 5-inch touchscreen for the P1P and P1S, with a bracket that fits the existing screen cutout, powered from the printer's built-in USB port. The vendor states installation does not void the printer warranty.

One unit controls up to ten Bambu printers, which quietly makes it the cheapest print-farm console available. It also interfaces with the X1 and A1 series.

Be honest with yourself about whether you want it. It is a control surface, not a capability.

Directing air all the way around the nozzle rather than from one side is a genuine improvement for overhangs and bridges — the kind of fix slicer settings alone often cannot achieve.

MJF nylon construction, which matters: a printed PLA duct inside a warm chamber will sag. Fits the Bambu X1/P1 hotends and the Panda Revo series.

Re-test your overhangs after fitting. Changing airflow invalidates tuned profiles, and for ABS you will want it turned down rather than up.

Extruder gears are a wear item. A worn set causes progressive under-extrusion that looks exactly like a partial clog, a bad flow calibration or wet filament — so people replace nozzles and even printers over it.

Golden nano-coated hardened steel gears for the X1, P1 and A1 series, with stated support for PLA, PETG, TPU and ABS. The improved grip helps most with TPU, which slips on a worn set first.

Diagnose before buying: open the extruder and look. Rounded teeth or packed debris are both visible, and cleaning them is free.

The P1S door is the component that gets scratched and hazy fastest. Polycarbonate tolerates chamber heat better than the acrylic it replaces, so it stays clear longer on a machine that runs warm.

Cheap, visible, and completely honest about what it is. P1 and X1 series only.