Filament Drying
The best filament dryer for nylon and PA6-CF
Nylon is the material where the cheap dryer on your shelf is not a smaller version of the right tool. It is the wrong tool, and the temperature ceiling is why.
By Michael W. · Published October 6, 2026

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Quick picks
Tap any row to jump to the full write-up. Prices and stock live on Amazon, never here.
| # | Product | Best for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() SUNLU E2 FilaDryer A cited 35-110 C range is the first figure on this page that is genuinely enough for nylon and PC. | Best dryer for nylon overall Engineering filament — PA6-CF, PA12-CF, PC, ABS and ASA — and annealing finished parts | Check price on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · live price shown on Amazon |
| 2 | ![]() Bambu Lab AMS HT High-temperature drying with the spool feeding the printer, so there is no re-absorption window at all. | Best if you want to print straight from the dryer One engineering-grade spool, dried hot, printed straight from the unit | Check price on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · live price shown on Amazon |
| 3 | ![]() EIBOS Tetras Active drying built around the AMS you already bought, rather than asking you to replace it. | Best if you already own an AMS AMS owners — active drying that works with the unit you already bought | Check price on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · live price shown on Amazon |
| 4 | ![]() SUNLU FilaDryer S4 Four spools in the standard band - the right second purchase once nylon has its own dryer. | The unit for everything else in your rotation Multi-color and multi-printer owners — four spools dried at once | Check price on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · live price shown on Amazon |
The short answer
For nylon, PA6-CF, PA12-CF and polycarbonate, buy the SUNLU E2 FilaDryer. Its cited 35-110 C range is the first temperature ceiling on this page that is genuinely enough for those materials, and a cited 500 W PTC heater gets there quickly rather than over an hour.
If you want the spool to feed the printer while it dries — which matters more for nylon than for anything else — the Bambu Lab AMS HT does that and dries hotter than an AMS 2 Pro. If you already own an AMS, the EIBOS Tetras adds active drying to it instead of replacing it.
A 70 C standard dryer is not a slower version of the right answer for nylon. It is the wrong tool.
Why nylon is a different purchase from PLA and PETG
Nylon is hygroscopic to a degree that makes the other materials look stable. It takes on moisture quickly, holds a lot of it, and prints visibly badly when wet — steam at the nozzle, foamed surfaces, bad layer adhesion and parts that snap where they should flex.
The practical consequence is the temperature ceiling. A cited 35-70 C unit is a real dryer and it does a genuinely good job on PLA, PETG and TPU. It does not reach what nylon needs, which means a long cycle in it produces a spool that is drier than it was and not dry enough to print well. That is the trap: the unit appears to work, the print is still poor, and the fault gets blamed on the filament brand.
Carbon-filled nylon — PA6-CF and PA12-CF — adds a second requirement that has nothing to do with drying: it is abrasive, and it will round a stainless nozzle quickly. If you are buying a dryer for PA6-CF, you also need a hardened nozzle, and probably a larger bore.
Cited temperature ceilings, and the ones we could not attribute
This is the whole decision, so it gets the honest treatment. The figures below are the ranges the units are cited as supporting by the sources in the list at the bottom. Where no fetched source stated a ceiling, the row says so rather than carrying a guess.
| Unit | Cited temperature | Capacity | Nylon and PC? |
|---|---|---|---|
| SUNLU E2 | 35-110 C | One spool | Yes - the clear pick |
| Bambu Lab AMS HT | High-temperature, no figure cited | One spool | Yes, and prints from it |
| EIBOS Tetras | No figure cited | AMS-paired | Verify on the listing |
| Bambu Lab AMS 2 Pro | Active drying, no figure cited | Four spools | No - lower than the HT |
| SUNLU FilaDryer S2 | 35-70 C | One spool | No |
| SUNLU FilaDryer S4 | Standard band | Four spools | No |
| EIBOS Cyclopes | Standard band | Four spools | No |
Follow the drying guidance on your own spool for the target temperature. Manufacturers differ, grades differ, and we have measured none of it — what this table tells you is which units can physically get there.
The two-dryer shelf, and why it is not extravagant
If nylon is in your rotation at all, the cheapest sensible setup is two units rather than one expensive one:
- One high-temperature single-spool unit for nylon, PC and PA-CF. Those spools come out rarely and one at a time.
- One standard-band four-spool unit for PLA, PETG and TPU, which is the bulk of what actually goes through the printer, and where capacity beats ceiling.
Buying one high-temperature single-spool dryer and trying to make it serve a four-color PLA workflow is the mistake in the other direction. It will do the job one spool at a time, slowly, at a wattage you did not need.
Printing from the dryer matters most here
A nylon spool starts taking moisture back on as soon as it leaves a dryer. On a long print that is not a theoretical concern — the last hours of the job are printing from filament that is wetter than the first hours were. Units you can feed from, whether the AMS HT or a sealed box with a PTFE outlet, remove that entirely. Dryers you can print from is the page for that specific requirement, and drying inside an AMS covers the route for people who already own one.
What this page is and is not based on
Every temperature, wattage and humidity figure above is attributed in the source list. Nothing here was measured by this site — there is no test lab, no measurement rig and no benchmark data, and how we review states that plainly. Where a unit's ceiling could not be attributed to a source we fetched, this page says so instead of publishing a number.
Every pick in full

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1. Best dryer for nylon overall
SUNLU E2 FilaDryer
A cited 35-110 C range is the first figure on this page that is genuinely enough for nylon and PC.
This is the pick, and the reason is a number: a cited 35-110 C range. Nylon wants to be dried well above where standard units stop, and a 70 C ceiling — which is what the affordable dryers offer — is not a slower version of the right temperature, it is a different thing.
A cited 500 W PTC heater matters alongside that ceiling. Getting to temperature fast rather than creeping there over an hour is the difference between a cycle you start in the evening and a cycle you start the day before. It also doubles as an annealing oven for finished parts, which is a second genuine use rather than a marketing bullet.
The costs are real. It is loud for an appliance at that wattage, it is single spool, and annealing is a technique that shrinks and distorts parts if you treat it as a button to press. If PLA and PETG are all you print, this is the wrong purchase entirely — the general roundup has your unit.
What it gets right
- 110 C is the first number on this page that is genuinely enough for nylon and PC
- A 500 W PTC heater gets to temperature fast instead of creeping there over an hour
- Doubles as an annealing oven, which is a second real use rather than a marketing bullet
What it does not
- Overkill and over-priced if PLA and PETG are all you print
- A 500 W heater is not a quiet, low-draw appliance
- Annealing shrinks and distorts parts — it is a technique to learn, not a button to press
| Temperature range (cited) | 35-110 C |
|---|---|
| Heater (cited) | 500 W PTC |
| Second function | Annealing as well as drying |
| Materials cited | PA6-CF, PA12-CF, PC, ABS, ASA |

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2. Best if you want to print straight from the dryer
Bambu Lab AMS HT
High-temperature drying with the spool feeding the printer, so there is no re-absorption window at all.
The AMS HT is the single-spool member of the AMS family and it dries at a higher temperature than the AMS 2 Pro — which is exactly what nylon and PC need. The reason it belongs on this page rather than only on the AMS pages is the feed path: the printer pulls from the unit while it is drying.
For nylon that closes the worst gap in the workflow. A nylon spool that comes out of a dryer and sits in room air for a two-hour print start has already begun taking moisture back on. Printing from the dryer removes that window completely.
Single spool is the right shape for engineering filament, which you rarely want four of. It is also the limitation: if multi-color is any part of the goal, this is the wrong unit, and AMS HT against a standalone dryer has the cost argument in full.
What it gets right
- Dries at a higher temperature than the AMS 2 Pro, which is what nylon and PC actually need
- Prints directly from the dryer, so there is no window where a dried spool sits absorbing moisture again
- Single spool is the right shape for engineering filament, which you rarely want four of
What it does not
- One spool. If multi-color is the goal, this is the wrong unit entirely
- Costs real money for a capability a standalone high-temp dryer also delivers
- Only worth it if you print materials that genuinely need the extra heat
| Type | Single-spool material system |
|---|---|
| Headline feature | High-temperature active drying |

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3. Best if you already own an AMS
EIBOS Tetras
Active drying built around the AMS you already bought, rather than asking you to replace it.
The Tetras is positioned specifically for Bambu Lab AMS owners: active drying that works with the unit on your shelf instead of replacing it. If you already own an AMS and the only reason you were eyeing an AMS 2 Pro was drying, this is the cheaper route to the same outcome.
The structural appeal is the same as the AMS HT's — drying and feeding in one place, so the spool never sits in room air between the two. For nylon that is the part of the workflow that most often goes wrong.
Two cautions, and they are the whole risk. Its value depends entirely on fitment with your exact AMS, so verify that first. And no high-temperature ceiling for it could be attributed to a source we fetched — if your nylon grade needs the top end of the range, confirm the figure on the listing rather than assuming it matches the E2.
What it gets right
- Built around the fact that you already own an AMS, rather than asking you to replace it
- Active drying while the AMS feeds the printer closes the gap between drying and printing
- Cheaper than an AMS 2 Pro upgrade if drying is the only reason you were considering one
What it does not
- Its whole value proposition depends on you owning a compatible AMS — verify fitment for your exact unit
- If you do not have an AMS, a plain four-spool dryer is simpler and cheaper
- More parts in the filament path is more places for a feed problem to start
| Positioning (cited) | Best for Bambu Lab AMS owners |
|---|---|
| Approach (cited) | Active drying that reuses the AMS you own |

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4. The unit for everything else in your rotation
SUNLU FilaDryer S4
Four spools in the standard band - the right second purchase once nylon has its own dryer.
Including this on a nylon page needs an explanation, so here it is: most people who print nylon also print a lot of PLA, PETG and TPU, and a single-spool high-temperature unit is a bad tool for those. The sensible shelf is one high-temperature dryer for engineering filament and one four-spool standard unit for everything else.
Four spools at once is the only capacity that matches a multi-color workflow, and it is cheaper per spool than any single-spool unit. Between jobs it doubles as warm storage for the whole set.
What it is explicitly not is a nylon dryer. Standard-temperature drying is not enough for nylon or PC, and buying this one for them is the single most common mistake on this topic.
What it gets right
- Four spools at once is the only capacity that matches a four-color workflow
- Dries the whole set you are about to print with, rather than one spool at a time while three re-absorb
- Cheaper per spool than any single-spool dryer
What it does not
- It is a big box; four-spool dryers need shelf space you may not have next to the printer
- Standard-temperature drying is not enough for nylon or PC — that needs a high-temp unit
- Four spools heat more slowly than one, so cycles are long
| Capacity | Four spools |
|---|---|
| Positioning (cited) | Best for multi-color and multiple printers |
Questions people actually ask
What is the best filament dryer for nylon?
The SUNLU E2 FilaDryer. Its cited 35-110 C range is the first temperature ceiling among affordable units that is genuinely enough for nylon, PA6-CF, PA12-CF and polycarbonate, and a cited 500 W PTC heater reaches temperature quickly rather than creeping there over an hour.
Can a 70 C filament dryer dry nylon?
Not properly. A 35-70 C unit is a real dryer and does a good job on PLA, PETG and TPU, but it does not reach what nylon needs - so a long cycle produces a spool that is drier than it was and still not dry enough to print well. That is the trap: the unit appears to work and the print is still poor.
Is the Bambu Lab AMS HT good enough for nylon?
Yes, and it has one advantage no standalone dryer has: the printer pulls filament from the unit while it is drying, so there is no window where a dried spool sits in room air. It dries hotter than the AMS 2 Pro. The trade is that it holds one spool and costs real money for a capability a standalone high-temp dryer also delivers.
Do I need two filament dryers?
If nylon is in your rotation, two units is the cheapest sensible setup: one high-temperature single-spool dryer for nylon, PC and PA-CF, and one standard-band four-spool unit for the PLA, PETG and TPU that make up most of what you print. A single-spool high-temp dryer is a bad fit for a four-color workflow.
What else does PA6-CF need besides drying?
A hardened nozzle, before the first spool. Carbon-filled nylon is abrasive and will round a stainless nozzle quickly. A 0.6 mm bore also helps, because chopped fiber is what clogs a 0.4 mm nozzle on carbon-filled filament - that is a separate problem from moisture and a dryer does nothing for it.
Sources
Read this next
- The best filament dryers in 2026Dryer picks split by temperature range and capacity, because a 70 C unit and a 110 C unit are different products for different materials.
- The best filament dryer for TPUWhy TPU needs a dryer more than any other common filament, and which unit to buy when you want to print straight out of it.
- Printing while dryingWhat the reabsorption gap costs per material, which units let you print from them, and when closing the gap is worth paying for.
- AMS HT vs a filament dryerThe reabsorption gap explained, and whether it justifies an AMS HT over a standalone high-temperature dryer for your print mix.
- The best nozzle for carbon fiber filamentHardened steel at 0.6 mm is the answer for carbon-filled filament - and the reason your 0.4 mm nozzle keeps clogging is not wear.
- Do I need a hardened nozzle for this filament?The one rule that answers this for every filament, plus a per-material table covering PETG, ABS, CF, silk, wood, marble and glow.