Textured PEI plate temperature, by material

The published temperatures

The full published table

Every figure below is the manufacturer's own published recommendation for the Bambu Textured PEI Plate, retrieved from the official store product page on 6 October 2026. None of it was measured by this site, and we have not added a row for any material the manufacturer does not list.

Two things worth reading out of that table. TPU is the lowest temperature on the plate and the one most people get wrong, because the instinct with a difficult material is to turn the bed up — and TPU on textured PEI can grip hard enough to tear the plate surface on removal. The high-temperature engineering materials are the ones where glue stick is recommended, which is the opposite of the usual assumption that glue is a beginner's crutch.

When adhesion fails, temperature is the third thing to change

The manufacturer's own guidance says two things in sequence: increasing heatbed temperature enhances adhesion, and dust and grease on the plate decrease it. The order matters, because raising temperature to compensate for a dirty plate works for about two prints and then stops.

1. Wash the plate

Detergent and warm water, by hand, then dry it without touching the surface. Skin oils are the overwhelming cause of first-layer failure on PEI and they are invisible. The manufacturer recommends regular cleaning with detergent and water specifically. This fixes more adhesion problems than every slicer setting combined — the full first-layer checklist is the page for it.

2. Check your Z offset and first layer height

A nozzle 0.05 mm too high produces a first layer that touches the plate without being pressed into it. On textured PEI that looks like partial adhesion — corners lift, the middle holds — which is the signature of height rather than temperature.

3. Then raise the bed temperature

Within the published range for your material, not past it. PLA at 60 C rather than 45 C is a legitimate move. PLA at 90 C is a different problem: you get the base of the print softening and "elephant foot" spreading on the first few layers.

What the texture does to your print, and when to flip

The textured surface transfers into the bottom face of every print. For functional parts that is a benefit twice over: it grips better, and it hides first-layer imperfections, so a slightly imperfect Z offset becomes forgiving rather than a failure.

For a part whose underside is visible, it is the wrong plate. That is what the smooth side of a dual-texture plate is for, and the trade is real: smooth PEI needs a cleaner plate and a more accurate Z offset to get the same result. Textured against smooth has the comparison in full, and the plate itself has the construction detail.

Why a plate stops working after a year

PEI is a consumable surface, not a permanent one. Three things wear it: repeated heat cycling, scraping with a metal tool, and the cumulative build-up of oils that never quite washes off. A plate that held PLA at 45 C last year and needs 60 C this year is telling you it is near the end rather than that your settings drifted.

That is the real argument for owning more than one plate, and for treating a third-party plate as a sensible way to do it. When you do swap, re-tune Z offset — plate thickness genuinely varies between brands, and the mismatch shows up as a first-layer problem that looks like a temperature problem.

If the printer is also complaining that the plate it detects is not the one in the G-code, that is a separate issue with its own fix: the build plate mismatch error.