Upgrades
P2S mods worth doing
The P2S arrives with the two upgrades P1S owners buy first. So the useful mod list is short, and the fitment list is shorter than the brand names suggest.
By Michael W. · Published October 11, 2026

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Quick picks
Tap any row to jump to the full write-up. Prices are read from Amazon and dated; stock is always whatever the listing says.
| # | Product | Best for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier Panda Build Plate A double-sided 257 x 257 mm plate explicitly listed for the P2S. The one mod that keeps a working machine working. | Best P2S upgrade A second plate so a failed first layer does not stop the queue | $25.99 · View on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · price as of October 10, 2026 |
| 2 | ![]() Bambu Lab AMS 2 Pro Four spools with active drying, humidity monitoring and RFID logging on the P-series. Everything else on this page is comfort. | The only mod that adds a capability The single best upgrade for a P1S or X1C owner who is tempted by a new printer | Check price on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · price as of October 10, 2026 |
| 3 | ![]() BIQU Designer Series Smooth PEO + Textured PEI Build Plate Smooth PEO one side, textured PEI the other, 257 x 257 mm, listed for the P2S. One plate instead of two when some prints need a glossy bottom face. | Best if a visible underside matters One plate that covers both a glossy underside and a matte one | $21.99 · View on Amazon #ad We earn a commission · price as of October 10, 2026 |
The short answer
The P2S needs far fewer mods than a P1S, because it ships with the two upgrades P1S owners buy first — a touchscreen and a quick-swap nozzle. If you came here expecting the P1S list, most of it is already done.
Buy a second build plate, then an AMS 2 Pro. The plate keeps a working machine working; the AMS is the only mod on this page that adds a capability rather than a comfort.
Check fitment on everything else, per part. Several popular P1S mods are listed for the P1/X1 platform and do not name the P2S. A brand supporting your printer is not the same as this part supporting it.
Why the P2S mod list is short
Modding is complaint-driven, and the P2S answered the two biggest complaints at the factory. 3DJake lists it with a touchscreen and a quick-swap nozzle, which are precisely what the Panda Touch and the Revo hotend exist to add to a P1S. Buying either for a P2S would be paying for something you already own.
What is left is the set of things no Bambu machine in this class does: hold four materials, dry them, and give you a spare surface to print on. That is why this page is three picks long rather than eight. A short honest list beats a long one padded with parts that change nothing.
What does not carry over from a P1S
| Popular P1S part | Listed for | Names the P2S? |
|---|---|---|
| BIQU Panda Touch screen | P1P, P1S; interfaces with X1 and A1 | No |
| Panda Touch + Panda Sense kit | P1P, P1S, X1C, X1E, A1 mini | No |
| Panda Revo quick-change hotend | P1S, P1P, X1C | No - and the P2S already quick-swaps |
| Bambu hardened 0.4 mm hotend | P1S, P1P, X1C, X1 Carbon | No |
| Panda Jetpack cooling duct | P1/X1 series | No |
| Panda Turbo cooling fan | X1 and P1 | No |
| Panda CNC extruder housing | P1 and X1 | No |
| Panda Door PC panel | P1 and X1 series | No |
| CryoGrip Pro plate | P1S, P1P, P2S, X1C, X1E, X2D, A1 | Yes |
| Designer Series dual plate | P1P, P1S, P2S, X2D, X1C, X1E, A1 | Yes |
| AMS and AMS 2 Pro | P-series and X-series | Yes |
The mods a P2S genuinely cannot use
A screen
It has one. The third-party screens exist because the P1P and P1S do not, and on a P2S they would be a second screen controlling the first.
A quick-change hotend, for the quick-change
The P2S already changes nozzles quickly. A Revo hotend would still be a flow and geometry change, but the headline feature is redundant — which removes most of the reason to leave the official hotend behind.
An enclosure
It is enclosed. The fabric enclosures in the enclosure roundup are for open-frame machines. What a P2S owner may still want is help with chamber warm-up, because 3DJake records that there is no active chamber heater — chamber temperature covers the free version of that fix, which is a soak before the print rather than a purchase.
The free mods, which are the best ones
Wash the plate with dish soap and hot water rather than alcohol. Let the chamber warm up before a tall ABS part. Keep filament dry. Re-check Z offset when you change surfaces. Clean the nozzle wiper. None of these cost anything and all of them remove failures that people buy parts to fix. Maintenance has the five jobs that matter in order, and print quality issues maps symptoms to causes before you spend.
What this page is and is not based on
Every fitment row is a registry spec row whose provenance is documented in content/products.ts; the P2S touchscreen, quick-swap nozzle and absent chamber heater come from the 3DJake listing cited on the A1 versus P2S page and in Sources below. We have not installed these parts on a P2S. Where a listing does not name the machine, this page says so rather than guessing. How we review explains the standard, and no price appears in this copy.
Every pick in full

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1. Best P2S upgrade
BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier Panda Build Plate
A double-sided 257 x 257 mm plate explicitly listed for the P2S. The one mod that keeps a working machine working.
Start with the boring one, because on a new platform it is also the safe one. The registry lists this plate at 257 x 257 mm, fitting the P1S, P1P, P2S, X1C, X1E, X2D and A1 — a list that includes the P2S explicitly, which is more than can be said for most of the P1S catalog.
A second plate is what stops a bad first layer stopping the queue. You wash one while the other prints, which also means you stop being tempted to clean a plate badly in a hurry. The registry notes the double-sided coated surface releases cooled parts without a scraper, and that it is priced to be the second plate rather than an upgrade over a healthy first one.
Expect to re-do Z offset and probably first-layer flow when you swap to it, because a coated steel surface is not PEI and adhesion behaviour differs by material. The plate roundup covers the alternatives and the plate mismatch error covers what the slicer does when you change.
What it gets right
- Fits seven different Bambu models, so it survives your next printer
- Priced to be the second plate, which is what actually keeps a machine printing
- Textured coating releases cooled parts cleanly without a scraper
What it does not
- A third-party surface means re-doing your Z offset and probably your first-layer flow
- Coated steel is not PEI — adhesion behavior differs by material, so expect a learning print or two
- Nothing here is an upgrade over a healthy official plate; it is a spare
| Surface | Double-sided coated spring steel sheet |
|---|---|
| Size | 257 x 257 mm |
| Fits | Bambu Lab P1S, P1P, P2S, X1C, X1E, X2D and A1 |

Stock photograph of this product class, not of this specific unit.
#ad We earn a commission · price as of October 10, 2026
2. The only mod that adds a capability
Bambu Lab AMS 2 Pro
Four spools with active drying, humidity monitoring and RFID logging on the P-series. Everything else on this page is comfort.
The P2S arrives with the screen and the quick-swap nozzle, which removes the two reasons P1S owners mod. What it does not arrive with is multi-material, and the AMS 2 Pro is the only item on this page that changes what the machine can do rather than how pleasant it is to use.
Active drying is the part that matters on a P2S specifically. 3DJake's listing records that the P2S chamber has no active heater, so the machine itself does nothing about moisture — a unit that dries the spool it is feeding closes that gap without a transfer step.
Count the space before you order: a four-spool unit needs the shelf beside or above the printer. AMS fitment covers which unit goes where and Combo versus base matters if you have not bought the printer yet.
What it gets right
- Active drying means the spool you print from is the spool you dried — no transfer step, no re-absorption window
- Four colors on a machine you already own, for a fraction of a new printer
- RFID logging removes the single most common cause of a ruined multi-color print: the wrong material profile
What it does not
- Four-color printing wastes filament on every tool change; the purge tower is real and it is not small
- If you only print single-color PLA, you are buying a dryer with a filament changer attached
- Needs the space beside or above the printer that your shelf may not have
| Type | Four-spool automatic material system |
|---|---|
| Headline feature | Active filament drying |
| Inherits | Humidity monitoring and RFID logging from the original AMS |

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3. Best if a visible underside matters
BIQU Designer Series Smooth PEO + Textured PEI Build Plate
Smooth PEO one side, textured PEI the other, 257 x 257 mm, listed for the P2S. One plate instead of two when some prints need a glossy bottom face.
Textured PEI transfers its texture to your first layer, which is wrong for anything whose bottom face is a show surface. The usual answer is a second smooth plate; this part puts both surfaces on one sheet.
The registry lists it as PEI-coated spring steel at 257 x 257 mm, fitting the P1P, P1S, P2S, X2D, X1C, X1E and A1 — again, with the P2S named. Smooth PEO is the surface that actually produces a glossy bottom face, which textured PEI cannot.
The costs are handling and forgiveness. Flipping means twice the touching, and fingerprints are what kills PEI adhesion; smooth surfaces are also less tolerant of a slightly-off Z offset than textured ones. Textured versus smooth settles which you actually need.
What it gets right
- Two surfaces on one plate, so a visible underside does not mean buying a second plate
- Smooth PEO is the surface that actually gives a glossy bottom face, which textured PEI cannot
- Fits seven Bambu models, so it outlasts the printer you bought it for
What it does not
- Flipping the plate means re-checking your Z offset for that side every time
- Smooth surfaces are less forgiving on adhesion than textured PEI — expect glue on tall parts
- Third-party surface, so first-layer flow needs a tuning print
| Type | Double-sided: smooth PEO one face, textured PEI the other |
|---|---|
| Material | PEI-coated spring steel, flexible and removable |
| Size | 257 x 257 mm |
| Fits | Bambu Lab P1P, P1S, P2S, X2D, X1C, X1E and A1 |
Questions people actually ask
What mods are worth doing to a Bambu Lab P2S?
A second build plate first, then an AMS 2 Pro if you want multi-material. The list is short because the P2S already ships with a touchscreen and a quick-swap nozzle, which are the two things P1S owners mod for. The AMS is the only common upgrade that adds a capability rather than a convenience.
Do P1S mods fit the P2S?
Mostly they are not listed for it. The Panda Touch, the Revo hotend, the Bambu hardened 0.4 mm hotend, the Jetpack duct, the Turbo fan, the CNC extruder housing and the Panda Door are all listed for the P1/X1 platform without naming the P2S. The CryoGrip and Designer Series plates and both AMS units do name it. Check per part, not per brand.
Does the P2S need a Panda Touch screen?
No - it has a touchscreen already. The third-party screens exist because the P1P and P1S shipped without one. On a P2S you would be adding a second control surface for the first.
Can the P2S print ABS without an extra heater?
Yes, it is enclosed, but 3DJake's listing records that there is no active chamber heater and one reviewer notes the chamber takes time to warm. So the free fix matters: let the chamber soak before a tall ABS part rather than starting cold. Do not add cooling fans to an enclosed machine printing ABS - extra airflow causes layer splitting.
Does the P2S take a hardened nozzle for carbon fiber?
It will need a hardened nozzle for abrasive filament like any machine, but the hardened hotend in our registry is listed for the P1S, P1P, X1C and X1 Carbon and does not name the P2S, and the 0.6 mm induction hotend is an H2-series part. Buy the hardened hotend the current listing names for a P2S specifically rather than assuming a P1S part transfers.
Sources
- BIQU Panda range overview - build plates, hotends, fans, extruder parts and AMS accessories, and which Bambu Lab models each is listed for - OpenELAB, retrieved 2026-10-11
- Every fitment list, material and stated-benefit row below is a registry spec row; provenance for each is documented in content/products.ts. Nothing here was measured by this site
Read this next
- P1S mods worth doingP1S modifications ordered by the problem each solves, with the popular ones that change nothing clearly marked.
- The BIQU Panda upgrades worth buyingRanked by the complaint each part removes, not by the catalog. The screen first, cooling second, and two that only make sense as repairs.
- Bambu Lab A1 vs P2SBoth list a 256 mm cube. The P2S buys an enclosure, CoreXY motion and a touchscreen; the A1 buys the same print area for less.
- Bambu Lab P1S vs P2SThe P2S adds a touchscreen and a quick-swap nozzle and no build volume. When that is worth a new machine and when a far cheaper part does the same job.
- The best build plates for a Bambu LabTextured, dual-texture or third-party - which plate to buy, and why owning two beats owning one good one.
- Which AMS to use with a P1SWhich AMS fits a P1S, why the 2 Pro is the pick over the original, and what to plan for before it arrives.